It is like breaking up with people every day, day after day, and I don’t like it a whole lot. On the dedication board by his name I wrote, “Get the work done.”. This was unusual. I start walking again. I spend the day at Rekabet Kurumu Cumhuriyet Fen Lisesi, a science-focused high school in Diyarbakır. “Ooof yaa,” Ayse said, rolling her eyes at me. Inside the apartment I changed into dry clothes while Ali built a fire in the TV room. How could I just sit on the deck doing nothing? I figured that tomorrow, my third full day in Horsunlu, I would tackle the dirt road outside the park, and that four days in Horsunlu would be enough (two of them had already passed). I was so happy to have a soft bed that I hurried down to the market for a can of Pringles, scurried back up to my room, and fell asleep before the sun set. It turned out I made my escape just in time — as we pulled away I heard the die-hards we left behind making plans to go for iskembe, a soup made from cow stomach. Taking these poor people’s food and sleeping in their houses for free?”. Enes was originally from a town about forty miles from where we were. We finally reached the flagpole at the municipal building which we had agreed on the bus ride would mark the end of the day’s walk. It was still light outside so I eased myself down into the soft grass, propped my feet up against a tree, and wrote in my journal for a while. I stop briefly to take a photo of the city limit sign: Diyarbakır, population 875,000. After all, if I am busy insisting I understand something I don’t, or trying to control something I can’t, it is awfully hard to be open to creativity and inspiration. A goat stood tethered to a tree by a rope around its neck. I climbed up the hill with my 45-pound pack, even though it was 4 extra kilometers (about 2.5 miles) at the end of the day. The next day I would take the bus back to where I ended the previous day, do a day of walking from there, then come back again to the pension by bus and spend the night. Not only was I a rock star now, they were too. I wish my big plan had been a dream and that this morning I could shake it off, shower, drink some coffee, drive to work at a familiar office, sit at a familiar desk, and type away at a familiar computer writing familiar emails to familiar people. It was to get a particular climb out of the way, from a valley floor to a village called Atalar a couple thousand feet above. Instead, he simply said with a straight face that he had come to the mosque to do his prayers. A couple of older men, whom I recognized from the mosque across the street, saw me and called me over to their table.I walked over and sat down with them. A few minutes later my courage returned and I started singing, at the top of my lungs, a jingle from a David Naughton advertisement from about the same time, “Be a Pepper, drink Dr. Pepper.”
Nov: US$1143 It was hard to concentrate on anything except the shooting pain coming from my foot, but I tried to wipe any sign of worry off my face, so that when he came back he would see me relaxed and smiling. The job was to walk across the country. The teachers had even done away with the rule “no blood no foul” — when one of the teachers got hit in the face with the ball, she just wiped away a rivulet of blood, laughed it off, and went back to playing. At the end of that day’s 30 kilometers I hopped the mini-bus back to Mersin and walked the final one or two kilometers from the main road to Melih’s apartment. I was so happy to be speaking my native language, and to be speaking with people who understood all of my words, that between their eagerness to ask me questions, and my happiness to talk, I barely touched my food. While the angry boy jumps and screams, I chat with his friends and introduce myself. “Right now I am with you.” The conversation continued. They told me its population was about 1,000. As the line of cyclists pulled away, I thought, Wow, they knew my name. When I finished I sat for an hour drinking unlimited refills of tea and listening to the water splashing from the fountain. This was my breakfast. Late afternoon I arrived at my destination for the day, a village called Kaplanli (pop. He contacted me and asked me if he could join me for a day of walking. I had been shown to the imam’s living room. I couldn’t miss it, he said. I mentioned someone had invited me to a wedding the next day. However, I had eaten a good sized breakfast earlier and wasn’t hungry so it didn’t matter. Conversation turned to small talk about the weather. A cop car car came down the hill from the direction of Urfa. “Do you know them?” Joy Anna asked me, puzzled. I sat on the bench as still as I could, trying not to disturb the world around me (and waiting for my phone to charge). If people could walk from China, I could walk across Turkey, and my mom could walk on her new knee. He excitedly went into the store and found a knife. East of Kosk I found an evil eye charm on the shoulder of the road. The one committing those evils (i.e. and Say: "I seek refuge with the Lord of mankind." The assistant drove me across the village in a beat-up old Toyota to the city’s vehicle maintenance yard. I definitely wouldn’t want to have these cramps while on the road. Many days on the walk were like this, and I always asked myself how I got so lucky. They were best friends from Poland. They were in this area because of the mountains and the lake where they could train in different terrains. We will take you there.”, “Thanks,” I replied, “but no, I need to walk.”, One of the officers repeated, “You should get into the car. My favorite of these four events was the kina gecesi. Our plans for the evening made, I stood up and walked over to the waiter to ask for the bill. Ziad, Milad, and Anisa weren’t carrying blankets, and they slept in their beds at home. Do you know of anything?”, “Probably. ", 1 But having been in Turkey for several years I was rather used to that and appreciated the kind-hearted Merry Christmas’s I received from friends on that day as they went to work as usual. A look of fear and disgust crossed her face. “Oh, I’m sorry. Matt Damon asks Tom Hanks to tell him his most special memory. I pulled out my phone to check the Kickstarter campaign. I’d learned by then that when a group of adults said they were looking for a place, it meant they had taken upon themselves the responsibility of finding a place for me to stay, and that if I were just patient, they would find one. My excitement at the storm drama competed with my tiredness from walking, and I drifted in and out of a shallow sleep as the storm raged above me. They told me the wedding had been for a friend of theirs, so they had been out late drinking and had just woken up a few minutes before Enes had pulled up honking beside me on the side of the road. About 20 times I had the following exchange: Villager walks past the park, notices me, turns head towards me, stops walking, tilts head curiously. “Walking is a great way to see the country and meet its people, but I could see the country and meet its people by bus. Sixty miles is an hour or two by car, but it is a week on foot. Even with the downtime to nurse my foot, and some unexpected hotel stays, I am hitting both of my targets: walk 55-60 miles per week, and spend $13 per day. People had been feeding me all the way across the country, but now they were friends I had met a week before, and here I was getting to see them again. What’s up?”. Then, without skipping a beat, he mentioned that things were kind of difficult at the school right now. I didn’t see any sheep outside. I started to thank him, but he scurried away before I could get a full sentence out of my mouth. But the light-hearted conversation with the flirty young women had changed my mood, and now I easily accepted the invitation: “Sounds great, I’d love to,” I replied, thinking for only a second how quickly my mood had changed, and how all it had taken was a few smiles and some hair tosses. Birds Without Wings traces the fortunes of one small community in southwest Turkey (Anatolia) in the early part of the last century—a quirky community in which Christian and Muslim lives and traditions have co-existed peacefully over the ... But I was also a little nervous. Put it down. 2 I didn’t know what that need was, but a few days earlier at TAC the universe had made me a rock star. We could get a bus right now back to Mersin, we’d get home early. He eagerly volunteered that he had seven children, one of whom was working at the gas station at that very moment. I panicked. The next morning I pulled on my pack and walked out of the lobby of the Thermal Springs Hotel. Does it mean he is not trustworthy? He took me back to the exact spot he had found me an hour earlier. It had a restaurant. There wasn’t a lot of tree cover though, so I was scraping the bottom of the barrel campsite-wise when I finally saw four or five poplars and a bush by the side of the road and figured that was probably the only place I would be able to camp. “Just a little further,” one of the men encouraged me. Turkey, nonetheless! I walked a little further, taking extra care to watch my form and make sure I wasn’t getting sloppy, but the pain became sharper. The village elders invited me to take off my pack and sit down and have some tea with them. Theirs was a world where iPhones, chargers, electricity, and hotels were common. I dug some clean long johns out of my pack and tied them around my neck instead. Toward the end of the day I’d started looking for a place to sleep but was having a hard time finding one. I like to go to the same restaurants every day. I’d walked more than halfway across Turkey! “No, haven’t been to Van either.” He changed the subject. He waved hello to every car, truck, and tractor we passed by, slowing down to hang out the window and chat with the drivers, one hand still on the steering wheel. When I told them I was walking across Turkey they began laughing. The spectacular views as I descended the mountains into Gaziantep province soon distracted me from my doldrums. But when I got there I found Altinapa was a work-only reservoir supplying water for the city of Konya (approx population 1 million). Why was this extra bridge here? Would I be giving up an authentic life on the road for an inauthentic, sanitized walk across the country? After I took the photo I climbed back up the embankment to the gravel road. He was married, had a couple kids, and was looking forward to celebrating the upcoming holiday, Kurban bayrami, with friends and family. So we drove to Incirliova and Enes called his friends from the night before to meet us for breakfast. I take off my sunglasses. I greeted the older boys and asked if there was a bakkal nearby. At first he would just translate a few sentences here and there as he walked by, but he gradually became a more permanent fixture at our table. When the apartments are sold in that building, Dad has finished another building so they move on and sell the apartments in the new building. I had taken an overnight bus from Istanbul. I would be glad to descend to the warmer climes, since the weather was becoming chilly on the plateau and I was now wearing my winter coat and wool scarf and hat, even when I walked. “How about the town hall?” volunteered one man who had just stuck his head in the door. I don’t know where their loyalties lie. After our tents were set up, Göksel and I walked into town and had a couple beers. The three of us gulped down the rest of our tea and walked across the street towards the mosque. But the father was jumping up and down, waving at me as if meeting me was the single most important thing in his life at that moment. Murat asked me if I wanted salad. I took a photo of my feet in the water. A 2021 psychological horror game called "iBLiS" (developed by FND Games) has included the last verse of the chapter being recited at the end of the game's intro. But it’s been six months, and even I barely understand what I am doing. My logistical concerns taken care of, we resumed our game of Okey and drank some Turkish coffee. We loaded into Meltem’s car and took a back route to the gasoline station. We stood up, said goodbye, and I leaned into the wind and walked back to Melih’s apartment, all the while thinking, “See the world as it is, not as you think it is. I sighed again, hitched up my pants, and began walking towards the city center. I had heard this song many times in the past few months, and was starting to realize it was not going to go away. The teachers’ meeting over, llgi took me to her classroom. You tell me. I turned to Joyanna and told her I needed to look for a place to stay that night. Just spend time there and give up the walk. He said that the salary wasn’t great. But first we dedicated the day to the pink-booted Oya Zaimoğlu, one of my guardian angels in Tarsus. I told him that an iced tea would be great if he had some. I was hot and thirsty. “Let’s go to a restaurant.” Then the three of us climbed into Meltem’s car and drove a couple hundred meters to a nearby restaurant. A bolt of pain shot up my leg. 6 Mina l-jinnati wannās(i), بِسۡمِ اِ۬للَّهِ اِ۬لرَّحۡمَٰنِ اِ۬لرَّحِيمِ He unlocked the door, pushed into the first room, and began rearranging some benches to create a path to the second room. It had reached 72% of its goal, with three weeks to go. He tried to pull it out, but the nut was too big. I am not a cop, I do not have any cops in my immediate family, and I don’t have any close friends who are cops. A wave of excitement spread through the crowd as the kids spied a foreigner with a backpack coming their way. I poked my head into the market to say goodbye and had a rare-woman-sighting. I briefly considered trying to break into a run to leave him behind, but I knew that because I was walking uphill with a heavy pack, I was at a disadvantage and trying to run would only highlight how vulnerable I was. Then I found a cheap motel where I spent my first night away from Charly’s Pansiyon. From the parts of my mind that I tried to keep most hidden, pictures of farmers as hicks sprang out, no matter that I myself came from a long line of farmers. A few minutes before reaching the gasoline station I had spotted a grove of trees next to the road on the other side of the gasoline station, and I had intended to check it out for the night’s camp spot. Most of the men in attendance at that point stood towards the back, hanging out on the periphery, just watching. “Good, that’s taken care of.”. I’d been so impressed by the Polish guys that I didn’t want to miss anything. I scanned the surroundings, and noted that the presence of two highways was going to limit my options since I wanted to find a spot away from the prying eyes of passing drivers. She said she was there and that was fine. Turkey’s Prime Minister, Tayyip Erdogan, was scheduled to visit Denizli that day. I thanked him for the walnuts and continued on. But here I was walking for 30 minutes at a time without seeing a car which was pretty unusual for me. Where do you sleep? Must get to work. He’d seen me in the paper, he said. I told them that no, I had not eaten lunch. I set up my camp at about 8:30, but since it was a little too early to go to sleep, I sat and rested on the wooden bench near the front door of the mosque rather than on the pine needles outside my tent. Before showing me to my room, the muhtar needed to take care of a little administrative business with one of the other residents, a villager who was buying a piece of property and needed to register his deed. In his retirement he had taken to booze. I bought a loaf of bread and a small carton of yogurt and asked Fatih bey if there was a place I could sit and eat. So I stood next to each one for a photo, and as I put my arm around the one who had introduced herself to me I remembered that I hadn’t showered in a few days, and I wondered how bad I smelled. It wasn’t a pretty walk-by-the-seaside day. The climb to the summit of Sertavul pass the next morning was short and steep. Back out onto the open road. I say hello to them. I thought about ditching the melon by the side of the road, but I didn’t want to be rude, even though no one would see me. The intro ends with the final verse of the chapter being recited, foreshadowing the bride's possible connection with a, This page was last edited on 11 August 2021, at 00:13. Of course, anyone traveling through would want to explore the rich history of the place. Shortly before the end of a class, one of my guardian angels would show up and wait by the classroom door. Rest on one of the park benches. Walking through it is a little like walking through the cantina in the movie Star Wars, a place filled with thousands of people just passing through from distant galaxies. So I turned left and began walking south along the coast, looking for a place closer to the water. God knows what I must have looked like and smelled like to the family who stopped. It was not a sign that something was wrong, it was just a sign of a conflict that was never going to go away. While I pulled the chair up to the table one of the men set a glass of tea and a couple slices of watermelon on the table in front of me. You don’t make a lot of money but that’s not why you do it. I would have gotten in the car immediately and come back later to complete those kilometers. I would come home at the end of the day to a house filled with people who loved me. He picked up one of the objects, a small book. So I messaged Hakan back that yes, he had found a photo of the correct station, and I was camped just to the right of the edge of the photo. The buildings were starting to spread out, and traffic was growing less dense. When the box was full, I told him, “There’s more. Have you been to Van?” I suspected the answer would be no, not just because he had just said he didn’t travel much, but because I was learning that most Turks had never been to Van, even though it was only a couple hours away from any point in the country, closer than Seattle is to San Francisco. It was starting to get pretty cold. He [the companion] said: ‘Of course O Muhammad.’ He said: "Say: I seek refuge with the Lord of Daybreak,’ (Surat al-Falaq) and ‘Say: I seek refuge with the Lord of mankind.’ (Surat an-Nas. I hoped now I would turn out to be a Weeble. But they hadn’t arrived yet. I chose the publicly visible area because I didn’t want to spook anyone by being a stranger who walks into their village from off the highway and then disappears into the darkness. There wasn’t even a gas station, so there would be no lunch or dinner for me that day. Some of these questions I knew were asked only to control the platform from which he worked the room. There is no way I can just scramble down this steep embankment with it on just so I can come and have tea and tomatoes with you. Gee, I wonder why, I thought to myself. We ate lunch and a dessert of cold watermelon sitting on their balcony overlooking the sea, enjoying as much of a conversation as my rusty Turkish would allow. The other travelers coming through didn’t understand this. They were curious, calling out questions over the driveway that separated me from them. You will lose, and you will waste valuable time and energy that would have been better used getting your work done. The place seated only about twenty people, and I was their only customer. When Merve was about 10, the village where she and her family lived was burned to the ground, and with it, the family home where Merve was born. At one point I made the conscious decision to break a party-going rule I’ve maintained for decades, which is the moment the men outnumber the women, leave, no matter what. From the evil of the sneaking whisperer, The waiter knew a little English, and when the conversation moved on to more advanced subjects he was called in to translate. Icericumra had been very social, and I had not made very good time. This was my first experience climbing hills with my huge backpack, and I immediately began to realize that I wouldn’t be able to move quickly to dodge traffic, so I would probably need to stay on the left shoulder to face oncoming traffic. In Quran 113 (Q:113), God protects from the outward harms of evils, whereas in Quran 114 (Q:114) God protects from evils which affect inside; i.e. I knew before entering a town that villagers were going to offer me whatever food they had and more. We drank some cinnamon and ginger tea that Ali had been warming next to the fire. Then I pulled out my increasingly ratty white board and dedicated that day’s walk to my friend Christian. In these initial weeks of the trip, some of the viewers back home in the U.S. would see the pictures I’d taken and the blogs I’d posted. Go back to Cardak. There is almost no tree farming or agriculture other than ground crops and grasses for sheepherding. I expected him to smile and laugh and not take me seriously. They were having the trips of their lives, following in the footsteps of St. Paul and soaking up the great history of the area! That would be a very helpful skill to have. Remember, Matt, prejudice does not have a profile, and if you ever think it does, you are probably the one being prejudiced. While I ate I talked to Fatih bey about life in the village. I watched for a bit, and then turned in at my hotel feeling satisfied and at peace. I felt inspired after spending time with him during my vacation and happy that somebody understood that when I was walking I was not on vacation, I was at work. It was getting colder, though, and darker, so after twenty minutes I decided to try one of the houses at the back of the lot and see if anyone was home. Instead of a long-bearded holy man, here was this twenty-three year old kid in a light blue polo shirt and jeans getting drunk with his buddies, dancing until late at night at a wedding, and then passing out at a friend’s house. I was wearing baggy knee-length shorts, a sweaty black t-shirt, and carrying my oversized backpack. I look at the shepherds a little closer. East of Bahtiyar, the terrain was much different from that of the previous days. I assured them it would be no problem, that in my backpack I had everything I needed for cold-weather camping. I’ve been on the road for six months,” I say. I didn’t really need to worry about being seen, though, as there was no traffic on the road to speak of. Instead, one week from today I will begin my solo walk across the entire length of Turkey by stepping into the Aegean Sea at Kuşadası. It was her birthday — 19 September. As tired as I was, I walked further into Bozkurt. I stripped off my clothes, wrapped myself in a towel, and took a long, hot shower, my first shower since Beyhsehir. I double-checked the financial calculations that I made in Dinar and decided to stay at a cheap motel at the side of the road as I walked into Keciborlu. 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